This is part of the detailed review for the TomTom Runner 2 (aka SPARK) and covers the less interesting firmware, software, configuration/pairing and sharing.
Firmware, Software & Apps
You must physically have the device with you. Try this first just in case: https://mysports.tomtom.com/app/
Plug it into the USB port of your PC and go to http://www.tomtom.com/123 whilst that’s doing it’s funky stuff download the mySports mobile app. The manual v2.2 does not mention Android support but there is an Android app, as well as an iOS one.
There was no new firmware due at the time of writing. I couldn’t test that.
You can pair to other Bluetooth SMART sensors, namely; chest strap (non cardio versions), cadence/speed sensor (dual sensor only) or earbuds/headphones.
Earbuds: Once I figured out that having pretty much any Bluetooth device nearby was bad, then pairing became easy. I had two different models of Jabra earbuds and one lower end Axgio model. Each one paired easily.
Note: There is no option for plug-in type headphones, they must be Bluetooth ones.
Chest Strap: You might want to use a Bluetooth chest strap in these circumstances:
- You want to save the battery on your Runner 2 (I couldn’t get a chest strap to pair with the Cardio model).
- In winter you might want to wear your Runner 2 over clothing and the Cardio would not work (I couldn’t get a chest strap to pair with the Cardio model).
- Maybe you didn’t buy the cardio option. you can then presumably pair to a chest strap. (I had the cardio version)
This HRM is reasonably priced and medically accurate.
Speed+Cadence Sensor: I don’t have a Bluetooth speed & cadence combined sensor. However I do have an ANT+ equivalent. These are NOT normally compatible but I was able to use a special piece of kit to convert the signal to Bluetooth (4iiii Viiiiva V100) and the TomTom picked up that nicely!
The point of doing that is that if my very unusual scenario worked then most likely you will have no problems pairing whichever speed and cadence sensor you have (Bluetooth SMART). The Wahoo RPM at £40 would be my recommendation, although you could go for the Polar or TomTom branded ones or one of the many others out there.
Power Meter or Running Footpod or Bike Cadence Sensor or Bike Speed Sensor: You can’t pair to a power meter and you can’t pair a footpod (for running cadence) and you can’t pair to solo speed or solo cadence bike sensors.
There are the usual configuration options for you to enter you age and weight and the like.
a. Training Zones
To benefit from focussed training you might want to use training zones. Many similarly priced watches will have speed/pace and heart rate zones which are all useful. The Runner 2/Spark ALSO allows cadence zones which currently only works for cycling.
To get the best use from the audio feedback you will need to set Zones and then the Runner2/Spark will feedback when you are in-zone, above-zone or below-zone.
Here are pace zones based on min/max pace.
Heart rate zones can be set online in your mysports account.
Other zones are currently set on the watch. The implementation of some of these zones is quite innovative – for example you can set a cadence zone by specifying, say, 90rpm +/- 5rpm
There is no WIFI upload from the watch to the internet. There is WIFI upload from the smartphone app to the internet.
Upload has to go via the smartphone or from a direct USB cable connection.
Profiles are already determined for each sport.
Data sharing is possible from the TomTom mysports CONENCT app. This is the app which resides on your PC and usually uploads data to your online mysports account. It can be configured to send data to several other online sports data platforms including STRAVA.
When doing this it always seems instant to me. So presumably it uploads directly to STRAVA rather than waiting for mysports-online to perform a periodic sync with various other online platforms – for example that is how Suunto’s MOVESCOUNT seems to work to me.